A saree gets all the attention. But behind every flawless drape, there’s a supporting cast that never gets mentioned: the petticoat that anchors the tucking, the fall that protects the hem, the pins that hold the pleats, and the hooks that keep the pallu in place.
If you’ve ever watched a saree slowly unravel during an event, slide off a shoulder at a wedding, or drag along the floor because the length wasn’t right — the problem wasn’t the saree. It was the accessories.
This guide covers every saree accessory you need — what it is, why it matters, how to choose the right one, and common mistakes to avoid. Whether you’re a first-time saree wearer or someone who drapes weekly, having the right toolkit makes the difference between struggling with fabric and wearing it with confidence. Pair this with our complete saree draping guide for the full picture.
The Petticoat – How to Choose the Right Fabric, Fit & Colour
The petticoat (also called inskirt or saya) is the foundation layer of every saree drape. It serves three functions: anchoring the tucked saree, providing shape to the drape, and preventing the saree from clinging to your legs.
Choosing the right fabric:
- Cotton petticoat: Best for everyday cotton sarees and lightweight handlooms like Mangalagiri and Ikat cotton. Breathable, absorbent, and comfortable for long wear.
- Satin petticoat: Best for silk, georgette, and chiffon sarees. The smooth surface allows the saree to slide and drape fluidly without bunching. Essential for sheer sarees like Chanderi and organza.
- Lycra-blend petticoat: Best for a sleek, body-hugging silhouette. Works well with modern draping styles and pre-draped sarees.
Getting the fit right:
- The waist must be snug — not tight, not loose. A loose petticoat will slide down under the weight of a heavy silk saree. A too-tight petticoat creates visible lines and discomfort.
- Length should reach your ankles (not the floor). If you wear heels with sarees, put them on before adjusting petticoat length.
- Drawstring (nada) is the traditional closure, but a side-zip with hook-and-eye gives a flatter waistline under lightweight sarees.
Colour matching:
| Saree Type | Best Petticoat Colour | Best Petticoat Fabric | Why |
| Opaque silk (Banarasi, Paithani) | Match the saree body colour | Satin or cotton | Prevents colour clash if saree shifts |
| Sheer (Chanderi, Organza, Chiffon) | Exact match essential | Satin (smooth drape) | Petticoat is visible through fabric |
| Cotton handloom (Mangalagiri, Ikat) | Match or neutral (beige/black) | Cotton | Breathability matters for daily wear |
| Dark saree (black, navy, maroon) | Black or matching dark shade | Satin or cotton | Light petticoat shows through dark fabric |
Fall Patti – What It Is & Why Every Saree Needs It
Fall (also called fall patti or foll) is a strip of cotton or silk fabric stitched along the inner bottom edge of a saree. It is one of the most overlooked accessories, but professional saree drapists consider it essential.
What fall does:
- Adds weight to the saree’s hem, helping it drape downward smoothly and evenly.
- Protects the delicate bottom edge from floor friction, dust, and wear — especially important for expensive silk sarees.
- Prevents the saree from riding up or fluttering in the wind.
- Extends the saree’s lifespan by taking the wear-and-tear damage instead of the original fabric. Critical for premium handlooms like Banarasi and Paithani that you want to last decades.
Key rules for fall stitching:
- Colour match: The fall fabric must match the saree’s bottom border colour exactly.
- Top edge: Must be hand-stitched with an invisible slip stitch. Machine stitching on the top edge looks cheap and is visible from outside.
- Bottom edge: Machine stitch is fine here for durability.
- Never use fabric glue: It stiffens the drape and can permanently damage silk fibres.
After stitching fall, also add pico (a tightly rolled zigzag hem) to the raw cut edges of the pallu and inner tucking edge. This prevents fraying and gives a clean, finished appearance.
Saree Pins, Safety Hooks & Brooch Pins – What Goes Where
Pins are the invisible infrastructure of a saree drape. Using the right pin in the right place is what separates a confident, all-day drape from a constant readjustment nightmare.
Types of saree pins:
- Medium safety pins (standard): For securing pleats at the waist, anchoring the first tuck, and pinning the pallu at the shoulder. You need 5–7 of these for a standard Nivi drape.
- Large safety pins: For heavy silk sarees (Banarasi, Kanchipuram) where the fabric weight demands stronger anchoring. Use at the waist pleat and the pallu shoulder point.
- Double-lock safety pins: Premium pins that don’t open accidentally. Ideal for events where you’ll be moving, dancing, or photographed extensively. These are what professional draping stylists use.
- U-pins / Hook pins: Small, flat pins that are invisible from outside. Perfect for pinning the pallu pleats or securing the blouse-saree junction at the back without any visible metal.
- Decorative brooch pins: Statement brooches worn at the shoulder where the pallu meets the blouse. They serve both a functional (securing pallu) and aesthetic purpose. Choose based on your blouse design and jewellery.
Pin placement map (Nivi drape):
- Pin 1–2: Inside waist — securing the first tuck and the pleat base to the petticoat.
- Pin 3–4: Pleat section — one pin through all pleats at the top (hidden inside petticoat), one at the base for stability.
- Pin 5: Left shoulder — securing the pallu to the blouse. This is the most critical pin.
- Pin 6–7: Pallu pleats — fanning and pinning the pallu pleats on the shoulder for a neat, consistent fall.
See our step-by-step draping guide for visual placement instructions.
Saree Belts, Shapewear & Modern Draping Aids
These aren’t traditional accessories, but they’ve become increasingly popular with modern saree wearers:
- Saree belt / kamarband: A decorative belt worn over the saree at the waist. It defines the waistline, adds a fashion statement, and helps hold the drape in place — especially useful for lightweight fabrics that tend to slip. Available in metal, fabric, and chain styles.
- Saree shapewear: High-waist, seamless shapewear worn under the petticoat. It creates a smooth silhouette, prevents petticoat lines from showing, and provides extra grip for the tucked saree. Especially useful with clingy fabrics like satin and georgette.
- Double-sided fashion tape: Adhesive tape strips used to secure the pallu to the blouse shoulder, the neckline edge, or the back drape. It’s invisible, temporary, and perfect for events where you need the saree to stay exactly in place without visible pins.
- Pre-draped saree kits: For those who find traditional draping challenging, pre-stitched and pre-draped saree solutions are now available with built-in pleats, zippers, and attached pallus. These are excellent for office wear or first-time wearers.
The Complete Saree Essentials Checklist
Saree Essentials Kit – Keep This Ready Before Every Drape
- ▢ Petticoat (right colour, right fabric, right fit)
- ▢ Fall patti stitched on the saree
- ▢ Pico done on pallu and inner edges
- ▢ 5–7 safety pins (medium + 1–2 large for heavy sarees)
- ▢ 1 decorative brooch pin (for pallu at shoulder)
- ▢ Blouse (well-fitted, hooks attached)
- ▢ Fashion tape strips (backup for pallu and neckline)
- ▢ Footwear on BEFORE draping (for correct length)
- ▢ Full-length mirror
For styling your Mangalagiri cotton or premium Maheshwari silk, having these essentials sorted beforehand makes all the difference. And once you’re done wearing, proper care and storage ensures your saree and accessories stay in perfect condition.
Got the Accessories Sorted? Now Find Your Perfect Saree
The right accessories transform saree wearing from a struggle into a joy. A well-fitted petticoat, a properly stitched fall, and strategically placed pins mean you can wear your saree all day — through a wedding, a workday, or a festival — without once worrying about your drape.
At Shashikala Sarees, we offer handloom sarees in every fabric and occasion — from breathable Mangalagiri cottons for daily wear to luxurious Banarasi silks for weddings. Every saree is artisan-made with complete transparency on fabric and origin.
Explore our handloom saree collection at ShashikalaSarees.com
FAQ’s
Q1: What is fall patti and why does a saree need it?
Fall patti (or fall) is a strip of cotton or silk fabric stitched along the inner bottom edge of a saree. It adds weight for a smooth downward drape, protects the delicate hem from floor friction and dust, and extends the saree’s lifespan. Professional saree drapists consider it essential, especially for silk sarees.
Q2: How do I choose the right petticoat colour for my saree?
For opaque sarees (silk, heavy cotton), match the petticoat to the saree body colour. For sheer sarees (Chanderi, chiffon, organza), an exact colour match is essential because the petticoat is visible through the fabric. For dark sarees, always use a dark petticoat — a light petticoat will show through.
Q3: How many safety pins do I need to drape a saree?
A standard Nivi drape requires 5–7 safety pins: 1–2 at the waist to anchor the tuck, 1–2 to secure the pleats, and 2–3 at the shoulder for the pallu. For heavy silk sarees or dance events, use large or double-lock pins and add 2–3 extra pins for security.
Q4: What is pico on a saree?
Pico (from the French picot) is a tightly rolled zigzag hem stitched along the raw cut edges of a saree — particularly the pallu end and the inner tucking edge. It prevents fraying and gives the saree a clean, finished appearance. Pico is done on a specialised machine and should be requested when you get your saree’s fall stitched.
Q5: Can I use fashion tape instead of safety pins?
Double-sided fashion tape is a great alternative for securing the pallu to the blouse shoulder, the neckline edge, or the back drape. It is invisible and leaves no marks on fabric. However, it is not strong enough to replace pins at the waist or pleat sections, where the fabric weight requires mechanical anchoring. The best approach is to use pins for structure and tape for finishing touches.


Add comment